Julie, Marian, Ben, Ryan, Gary, Rick, Bill and Bruce arrive in
London on flight 174. Heathrow is an interesting place. The pubs are open
in the morning! I vote for English Breakfast and London Pride.
Trish and Nathan will join the gang during the morning and fly
down to Athens on BA632. Look out Athens, here we come!
When we arrive at the airport and are retrieving our luggage we
need to stop at the Amphitrion Holidays travel agency and pick up our prepaid
ferry tickets. AMPHITRION HOLIDAYS S.A. ATHENS AIRPORT ARRIVAL LEVEL, between
Exit/Entry Doors 2&3 Tel.: +30210 3530162, Fax: +30210 3532316 E-mail: airport@amphitrion.gr
"We provide our customers, especially through our office at the Athens
International Airport, «Eleftherios Venizelos», personalized service 24 hours a
day, 365 days a year, assisting them with all their travel arrangements and last
minute bookings. Furthermore, we offer 'meet and greet' facilities, VIP's
service desk, individual and group transportation services."
I have arranged for a minibus to meet us at the airport and take us all together into town to our hotel, Hotel Attalos.
Attalos Hotel Athinas 29, Monastiraki Athens 10554 Phone: 01/321-2801 through
01/321-2803 Fax: 01/324-3124
The market area, where you'll find the Attalos, is full of life and color by
day, but deserted at night. The pleasant hotel is well run by its friendly
owner, Kostas Zisis, who goes out of his way for guests. The rooms are large;
many have an exceptionally fine view of the Acropolis and Mt. Lycabettus. Try to
get one on the fifth or sixth floor and in the rear, where the street noise is
reduced, though the double-glazed windows and air-conditioning usually deaden
the noise. V. 80 rooms with bath. Bar, air-conditioning.
It will probably be around 7:00 or 7:30 pm by the time we get
into Athens and checked into the hotel. My thought is, lets have a drink
or two at the rooftop bar. The view is . . . drop-dead magnificent.
Then I say we ask for a restaurant recommendation at the front
desk and eat Greek! Their website says they can recommend some Greek tavernas
that are off the beaten track. I'm still looking for the place where we all dance in the
street and break plates.
Of course, this is what I'm thinking of doing. On this trip, no
one has to do anything (excepts stay in the places we're paying for and be down
at the harbor in time to catch the
ferries).
Introduction to Athens (Frommer's)
Not too long ago, Athens used to be the city Greeks loved to hate. Expensive,
polluted, overcrowded, and bursting at the seams with more than 5 million
inhabitants -- over 40% of the entire country's population. However, the
preparations for the 2004 homecoming Olympics brought forth many changes to the
city and the successful staging of the Games imbued the ancient city and her
residents with a newfound confidence that acted like a catalyst for the many
changes that are continuing to take place. Much like Barcelona, the Olympics
were just what Athens needed to get its groove back. The city suddenly,
unexpectedly, and almost unabashedly feels young again. Forever the city of a
thousand contradictions, Athens is one of the few ancient cities in the world
where the cutting edge, the hip, and the modern can suddenly coexist so
harmoniously with the classical and complement each other to near perfection.
Athens today is a strikingly wealthier, more sophisticated and cosmopolitan
city than it was pre-Olympics and most certainly than it was when I was growing
up in the '80s, but no matter how fascinating its current renaissance is, one
must keep in mind that this is a city that has gone through countless
transformations throughout its long and turbulent history. When I was talking
with my grandmother about how different the Athens of today is to that of my
childhood, I paused to ask her what the biggest difference was between the
Athens she had known as a young woman and the Athens of today. "People used to
say 'I'm hungry'" she said. "Now they say 'I'm bored.'" She had been a young
woman in Athens during the famine, poverty, and horrors of World War II; the
images of the Nazi flag on the Acropolis and finding friends and neighbors dead
in the streets were etched in her memory.
The dawn of the 21st century found the ancient city with a multitude of
much-needed changes: a vast new infrastructure system; a sparkling and
continuously expanding new Metro and immaculate stations, many of which display
the artifacts found during its construction; a new international airport named
one of the world's finest by the International Air Transport Association; miles
of new roads and a sorely needed beltway around the city that has eased the
city's infamous traffic and has significantly reduced the city's equally
infamous smog. The ancient sites have been linked together by a promenade, a
unique city boardwalk around classical Athens with antiquities on one side and
modern-day sidewalk cafes, galleries, renovated mansions, and rotating outdoor
art installations on the other. All in all, 10 miles of downtown Athens's
notoriously traffic-clogged streets have been pedestrianized, transforming one
of the most pedestrian-unfriendly cities in the world into a stroller's delight
and into a much more charming, accessible, and enjoyable city than before.
Pavements have been widened and squares refurbished or redesigned. The capital's
coastline has also been revived, with a dizzying selection of cafes,
restaurants, and open-air nightclubs by the sea and in marinas; the coast also
has a multitude of sporting facilities, pedestrian shopping districts, and
pristine beaches -- all a mere tram ride from downtown.
Greek cuisine is undergoing its own renaissance at the hands of talented new
chefs, making Athens a haven for foodies worldwide (three restaurants have
already been awarded a prestigious Michelin star); museums were renovated and
expanded while several new and exceptional smaller museums have also joined the
already impressive lineup (the stunning new Acropolis museum will steal the show
for many years to come and will hopefully see the return of the Parthenon
Marbles to their home), and many galleries and art and exhibition centers have
sprung up all over the city -- the majority of them housed in former warehouses
and factories. The numerous industrial-to-art conversions have been among the
most pleasant surprises for the city, for they led almost immediately to the
rebirth of formerly run down and all-but-abandoned neighborhoods. Following the
lead of Psirri and Thissio -- two ancient neighborhoods neglected in more recent
years that are now the hippest downtown destinations -- Gazi and Kerameikos have
also risen from the ashes, going from gritty to urban chic.
As you explore Athens, try to make the city your own. Walk its streets, take
in its scents, linger in its sidewalk cafes, squares, and rooftop terraces, take
in a show in an ancient open-air theater, or an avant-garde performance,
concert, or art exhibition at one of the new multipurpose arts complexes, or
enjoy a movie under the stars. Climb its mountains, swim in its waters, visit
its ancient temples and Byzantine churches, try its food and its nightlife, and
see as many museums as you can. Take a stroll along the Archaeological
Promenade, inside the lush National Gardens and Zappeio gardens, through the
many neighborhoods and ports, and find yourself at the top of Lycabettus
Mountain or Cape Sounion at dusk for two of the most spectacular sunsets outside
of Santorini. Explore its ancient districts and its most modern ones to witness
an ancient city discovering its modern soul in front of your very eyes. Take the
bad in stride as well -- long-term problems have been addressed, not eradicated.
The smog does return from time to time (especially during heat waves) and
traffic can still be fierce -- so feel free to yell at the taxi driver who
refuses to stop for you in a torrential rain or packs you into his taxi with
many other passengers in the stifling summer heat; to mutter obscenities to
yourself for getting stuck in traffic when you could have easily taken the Metro
instead; and to throw your hands up in exasperation as a strike threatens to
ruin your holiday -- a glimpse of the floodlit Parthenon or a glass of wine on a
rooftop, in an ancient quarter, or by the sea will have you back to your old
self in no time. Long after you have gone, you may feel a strange call, a
certain nostalgia for something you will not be able to explain at first. You
will soon realize it is Athens calling you back like a siren as she has done to
so many of us that have tried to leave her. For anybody that has taken the time
to truly get to know her, you will find yourself longing to return to her
embrace. Exciting and exasperating, ancient and modern, seductive and
unforgettable -- welcome to Athens.
Now, about that dancing.......
Restaurant ideas
Karavitis Arktinou 35 and Pausaniou 4, Pangrati Athens Phone:
01/721-5155
In this neighborhood favorite near the Panathenaic Stadium, the winter dining
room is insulated with huge wine casks, and in summer there's garden seating;
get there early so you don't end up at the noisy sidewalk tables. The classic
Greek cuisine is well prepared, including pungent tzatziki, bekri meze (lamb
chunks in spicy red sauce), and stamnaki (beef baked in a clay pot). No credit
cards. Closed Greek Easter. No lu
O Platanos Diogenous 4, Plaka Athens Phone: 01/322-0666
Set on a picturesque corner, this is one of the oldest tavernas in Plaka, and
it's a welcome sight compared with the many overpriced tourist traps in the
area. It has a shady courtyard for outdoor dining. Don't miss the oven-baked
potatoes, roasted lamb, and the exceptionally cheap but delicious barrel retsina.
Although not much English is spoken, the staff is extremely friendly; you can
always go back to the kitchen and point to what you want. No credit cards.
Closed Sun.
The proprietor and chef's grandfather owned the legendary Pandelis in
Istanbul, and this one is a real find: the tables are set among greenery on a
quiet side street and the waiters are courteous and helpful. Among the entrées
are eggplant with garlic and tomato named Imam Bayildi (the cleric
fainted)--presumably because the dish was so delicious--and the pièce de
résistance: yaourtlu kebab (skewered lamb and beef with a zesty yogurt sauce).
Try kavuk gogsu (an unusual chicken-based dessert pudding). DC, MC. No lunch
weekdays. No dinner Sun.
Run by the Bairaktaris family for more than a century, this is the best place
to eat in Monastiraki Square. After admiring the painted wine barrels and
black-and-white snapshots of Greek film stars, go to the window case to view the
day's magirefta (stove-top cooked dish, usually made earlier)--beef kokkinisto
(stew with red sauce), tsoutsoukakia spiked with cloves--or sample the gyro
platter. Appetizers include small cheese pies with sesame seeds, tender mountain
greens, and fried zucchini with a garlicky dip. No credit cards.
A bit more expensive...
Famagusta Zagoras 8 (end of Michalachopoulou), Ambelokopi Athens
Phone: 01/778-5229
The Mediterranean and Middle East have both influenced Cypriot cuisine,
resulting in the tasty assortment of mezes. Famagusta is romantic, with
candlelit tables and Cypriot handicrafts: baskets, colorful weavings, and
ceramics. A guitarist and a bouzouki player discreetly sing Greek and Cypriot
favorites, and later the dance floor is packed. The seftalia (minced meat
wrapped in suet), ofton (lamb in pastry cooked in a ceramic dish), tabbouleh
salad with cracked wheat, and lounza (a thick smoked pork fillet spiced with
coriander) are some recommended treats. DC, MC. No lunch.
One of the best of the old-time haunts, Manessis is a homey garden in summer
and several rooms of a little house in winter. A waiter brings you a long wooden
tray with appetizers to choose from, including smoked herring, sausage, which
he'll fry right at the table, and black-eyed peas. Specialties include Zakinthos-style
veal, shrimp saganaki, gardoumba (spit-roasted innards and meat), swordfish, and
chicken souvlaki. The owner has added more vegetarian dishes like falafel,
hummus, and tabbouleh; sweets, include hasissame (ice cream served on a cake
soaked in syrup). No credit cards. Closed 2 wks in Aug. No lunch.
Ta Tria Tetarta Oikonomou 25, Exarchia Athens Phone: 01/823-0560
There's something dollhouse-like about this tri-level stone and wood interior
with nooks and crannies, a fireplace, and Greek knickknacks. The appetizers
served here are usually hard to find: spicy feta sprinkled with red pepper and
roasted in foil, cheese bread, skewered seftalies (a tasty mix of lamb liver
bits and onions wrapped in intestines), seafood pie, and Turkish favorites such
as yogurt and sausage salad. No credit cards.
Xynos Aggelou Geronda 4, Plaka (entrance down the walkway next to
Glikis kafenion) Athens Phone: 01/322-1065
Stepping into the courtyard of this Plaka taverna is like entering a time
warp: Athens in the '50s. According to loyal customers, nothing's changed much
since then, including the excellent food. Start with the classic appetizer of
stuffed grape leaves, then move on to the taverna's forte--cooked dishes such as
lamb yiouvetsi, livers with sweetbreads in vinegar and oregano, and
tsoutsoukakia. In summer, tables move outside; year-round, roving musicians
charm the crowd as they croon ballads of yesteryear. No credit cards. Closed
weekends and part of July.
Greek Food Notes...
APPETIZERS
DOLMADES - vine leaves stuffed with rice and then rolled. Served, most often,
cold as appetizers. Simple in appearance, this dish requires numerous cooking
operations in order to achieve the hint of lemon flavor that tantalizes the
taste and opens the appetite. Sometimes served hot with an avgolemono sauce on
top. Its origin is thought to be from Thebes about the time of Alexander the
Great. TlROPITES - -Triangles of paper thin glazed phyllo pastry filled with
feta cheese and served piping hot, containing, egg, butter, and an unforgettable
flavor to whet the appetite. SPANAKOPITES Baked spinach and feta cheese puffs in
buttered phyllo pastry, with egg, onion, butter, olive oil, bread crumbs.
TARAMOSALATA - Greek caviar combined with bread, oil, onion, and lemon to
compliment any meal as an appetizer. TZATZIKI - - A yogurt, cucumber and garlic
dip to be served chilled on its own or with pita. Great on a gyro. AVGOLEMONO
SOUP - - Instead of penicillin, the Greeks use this chicken, rice and lemon soup
to cure all colds. Avgolemono is so good, however, that you don't have to be
sick to enjoy it.
MAIN COURSES
ROAST LAMB - Lamb prepared in the traditional Greek way with garlic and oregano.
MOUSSAKA - - A baked delicacy prepared with sliced eggplant, lean ground beef,
onions, tomatoes, butter, eggs, milk, cheese and seasonings. The national dish
of Greece. ROAST CHICKEN - - Greek style, with garlic and oregano. GYRO - Thin
slices of barbecued meat specially seasoned with herbs and spices, served with
tomatoes and onions on pita bread, and topped with tzadziki. Best off of a
rotisserie. PASTITSIO - A Greek "lasagna" combining macaroni, ground meat,
cheese and covered with béchamel sauce. GREEK SALAD - A tomato and cucumber
salad seasoned with onion, olive oil, vinegar, fete cheese and oregano.
Traditionally, no lettuce in a Greek Salad! PILAFI - Fluffy rice simmered in
butter, spices and rich chicken stock. Perfect with all dinner dishes.
PASTERIES
MELOMAKARONA - Honey coaches sprinkled with a spice-nut mixture KOULOURIA--
(Also called Koulourakia) - Breaded butter cookies with a light sugar glaze.
Perfect with coffee. BAKLAVA - Thirty or more nut filled, paper thin layers of
glazed phyllo sheets of pastry soaked in pure honey make this the king of pastry
desserts. Every country in the Near East claims baklava is its own. KOURABIEDES--
Sugar covered crescent shaped cakes that melt in one's mouth. They are served at
weddings, at Christmas, and on special occasions, such as namedays and holidays.
DIPLES - Honey rolls so thin and flaky that they crumble when they are bitten.
In Greece this delicacy is often cooked and sold at the panigiria or fairs where
arts and crafts from every region are proudly displayed for sale. KATAIFl - A
delicious pastry made of shredded phyllo rolled with nuts and honey and
sprinkled with syrup. Found throughout the Mediterranean. LOUKOUMADES - Feathery
light honey tokens or sweet fritters deep fried to a golden brown and dipped in
boiling honey. At taste delight from ancient Greece where they were given as
tokens to winners of the games at the festivals
COFFEE
GREEK STYLE - This is a thick, powered coffee that is made in a brickee (or
brika), which is traditionally a small brass pot with a long handle. Modern
advances have given us stainless steel brikas. This is not instant coffee, and
even though powdered, the coffee used does not dissolve. The grounds settle to
the bottom of the cup. When you order Greek coffee, you must specify plain,
sweet or medium-sweet (sketo, glyko or metrio in Greek, respectively). If
there's a gifted Greek grandmother (a Yiayia) around, you can turn your
demitasse coffee cup over and she'll read the grounds left in the cup to tell
you your future.
