My Big Fat Greek Vacation
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Ancient Thira (Frommer's)
Hours Tues-Sun 8am-2:30pm; site sometimes open later in summer
Location On a hilltop 3km (2 miles) south of Kamari by road (map)
Prices Admission 4€ ($5.20)
A high rocky headland (Mesa Vouna) separates two popular beaches (Kamari and Perissa), and at its top stand the ruins of Ancient Thira. It's an incredible site, where cliffs drop precipitously to the sea on three sides and there are dramatic views of Santorini and neighboring islands. This extensive group of ruins is not easy to take in because of the many different periods on view -- Roman baths jostle for space beside the remains of Byzantine walls and Hellenistic shops. One main street runs the length of the site, passing first through two agoras. The arc of the theater embraces the town of Kamari, Fira beyond, and the open Aegean.
Greeks lived here as early as the 9th century B.C., though most buildings are much later and date from the Hellenistic era (4th c. B.C.) You may not decipher everything, but do take in the view from the large Terrace of the Festivals. This is where naked lads danced to honor Apollo (inadvertently titillating, some of the graffiti suggests, a number of the spectators).
You can reach the site by bus, car, or taxi or, if you wish, on foot, passing on the way a cave that holds the island's only spring. Excursion buses for the site of Thira leave from Fira and from the beach at Kamari. Allow yourself at least 5 hours to view the site if you walk up there and walk back down; if you come and go by transport, allow at least an hour at the site.
Boutari Winery (Frommer's)
Hours Daily 10am-sunset
Location Megalohori. 1.5km (1 mile) south of Akrotiri village. Just outside
Megalohori, on the main road to Perissa
Prices Admission and tasting 8€ ($10)
Boutari is the island's largest winery, and Greece's best-known wine exporter. The admission includes a tour, video presentation, and tasting of about six wines, with mezedes (light snacks). This is a pleasant way to spend an hour or so.
Museum of Pre-Historic Thira (Frommer's)
Hours Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm
Location Across the street from the bus stop in Fira; entrance is behind the
Orthodox Cathedral
Prices Admission 3€ ($3.90)
Come here to see frescoes and other finds from Ancient Akrotiri, along with objects imported from ancient Crete and the Northeastern Aegean Islands. Some of the pottery -- cups, jugs, and pithoi -- are delicately painted with motifs familiar to those of the wall paintings . If possible, visit both the museum and the archaeological site at Ancient Akrotiri on the same day. Allow an hour here.
Thira Foundation: The Wall Paintings of Thira (Frommer's)
Location Petros Nomikos Conference Center, Fira. On the caldera, 5 min. past the cable car on the way to Firostephani Prices Admission 4€ ($5.20). Recorded tour 3€ ($3.90)
This exhibition created copies of the Akrotiri wall paintings, using a sophisticated technique of three-dimensional photographic reproduction that closely approximates the originals. The displays present some of the paintings in a re-creation of their original architectural context. The terrace in front of the foundation offers an astonishing view toward Fira and Imerovigli. Allow an hour here.